December is when Kashmir turns into the winter postcard: snow on the Gulmarg meadow, the ski season opening on Apharwat, and cold, clear days in Srinagar. It is also the month that most often disappoints people who were promised snow at Christmas. Both are true, and this guide explains how to plan for the first without being caught by the second.

We are a tour operator based in Srinagar, and December is one of our busiest months. What follows is what we tell our own guests.

Kashmir in December at a glance

  • Srinagar: about -2°C at night to 8°C by day. Frost most mornings.
  • Gulmarg: several degrees colder, well below freezing at night.
  • Snow: usual at Gulmarg and Sonamarg by the second half of the month; intermittent in Srinagar; never guaranteed for a fixed date.
  • Chillai Kalan, the 40 coldest days of the Kashmiri winter, begins on 21 December.
  • Crowds and prices: quiet and good value for the first three weeks; the most expensive fortnight of the year from about 25 December to 5 January.
  • Open: Srinagar, Gulmarg, Sonamarg (through the Z-Morh tunnel) and Pahalgam. Closed: Gurez, Zero Point, Sinthan Top and the Mughal Road.

Will it snow? The honest answer

Usually, yes, at altitude, by the end of the month. But snowfall in Kashmir depends on western disturbances, the weather systems that arrive from the west, and they do not keep a calendar. Two recent winters show the range:

  • Winter 2023–24 was almost snowless. Gulmarg had barely any snow through December and January, and the ski season effectively started in February.
  • Winter 2025–26 had a long dry spell, then the first significant snowfall of the winter arrived on 21 December, the first day of Chillai Kalan, with several inches at Gulmarg overnight.

What that means for planning:

  1. If snow is the whole point, go to Gulmarg, not Srinagar. At 2,650 m it gets snow earlier and keeps it longer.
  2. Later in the month is safer than earlier. The last ten days of December are more likely to have snow on the ground than the first ten.
  3. The Gondola is your insurance. Even in a dry spell, Apharwat at almost 4,000 m usually has snow at the top of Phase 2.
  4. If you are flexible, January and February are more reliable. See Kashmir in January.

Weather and what to pack

Days in Srinagar are often clear and bright, between about 5°C and 8°C, and nights drop below freezing. Gulmarg and Sonamarg are colder still, and the top of the Gondola is colder again, with wind. The Kashmiri answer is the pheran, a long woollen cloak, and the kangri, a small wicker-covered pot of embers carried underneath it; you will see both everywhere.

  • Thermal base layers, top and bottom.
  • A proper down or padded jacket, not a fleece.
  • Woollen cap, gloves and thick socks.
  • Waterproof shoes with grip. Snow boots can be hired at Tangmarg and Gulmarg for about ₹250.
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen: the light off the snow is strong.
  • Moisturiser and lip balm: the air is very dry.

What is open and what is closed

Gulmarg: the heart of a December trip

Snow on the meadow (in most years), the Gondola running in both phases when the weather allows, sledging, snow play and, from late December, the ski season. Book Gondola tickets well ahead: December is one of its busiest months. Our Gulmarg Gondola guide and Srinagar to Gulmarg guide cover tickets, fares and the road.

Sonamarg: newly a winter destination

Since the Z-Morh tunnel opened in January 2025, Sonamarg stays reachable in winter, apart from short closures after heavy snow or avalanche warnings. Expect a snowfield with sledges and snowmen rather than a glacier walk. Zero Point beyond it is closed. See Srinagar to Sonamarg.

Pahalgam: partly open

The town and Betaab Valley are usually reachable; Aru and Chandanwari are often snowbound. The Pahalgam union stand will tell you what is open that day. See Srinagar to Pahalgam.

Srinagar: quiet, cold and beautiful

Dal Lake in winter is still and grey-blue, with mist in the mornings and far fewer boats. Shikaras still run. The Mughal gardens are bare but the views are clear. This is also the season for harissa, a slow-cooked meat dish eaten at breakfast and sold only in winter from a handful of shops in the Old City; and for kahwa at every opportunity.

Closed until spring

Gurez, Zero Point and the Zojila pass, Sinthan Top, Bangus and the Mughal Road are all closed by snow. Doodhpathri and Yusmarg can be reached on clear days, but their roads close after heavy snowfall.

Families sledging and building a snowman at Sonamarg in winter, below snow-covered peaks
Sonamarg in winter: reachable since the Z-Morh tunnel opened in January 2025.

Christmas and New Year in Kashmir

Christmas Day 2026 is a Friday, which makes the Christmas weekend and the week to New Year the busiest stretch of the Kashmir winter. Gulmarg is the centre of it: hotels hold New Year’s Eve dinners with bonfires and music, and the meadow fills with visitors hoping for snow.

  • Book early. Gulmarg hotels for 30–31 December fill months ahead, and flights into Srinagar in the last week of December are among the costliest of the year.
  • Expect peak prices from about 25 December to 5 January, often well above the rest of the month.
  • Book the Gondola as soon as your dates are fixed; it sells out daily over the holidays.
  • Consider staying in Srinagar and visiting Gulmarg by day if Gulmarg hotels are full or overpriced.
  • Holy Family Catholic Church in Srinagar holds Christmas services if you want to mark the day.

What December costs

In the first three weeks of December, hotels and houseboats are at shoulder-season rates and flights are moderate: one of the better-value times of the year. From about 25 December everything climbs. Our published package prices are the starting point, but over New Year hotel availability is limited and many properties add holiday supplements, so ask for a confirmed total for your exact dates before you pay. The Kashmir trip cost guide has the line-by-line numbers.

  • [Kashmir 4N/5D](@tourPackage-f4114980ea64): ₹27,200 for two, ₹38,200 for four.
  • [Luxury Gulmarg Retreat](@tourPackage-c06796729e01): two nights at a 5★ Gulmarg resort and both Gondola phases, ₹78,500 for two.
  • [Glimpse of Kashmir honeymoon](@tourPackage-37b68e3748db): ₹36,645 per couple, with Gondola Phase 1 included.

A five-day December itinerary

  1. Day 1: Srinagar. Arrive, the gardens and Shankaracharya Temple, a shikara in the late-afternoon light.
  2. Day 2: [Gulmarg](@destination-fcf68225f2c2). Leave by 8; the Gondola in the morning slot, snow play in the afternoon. Better still, stay the night.
  3. Day 3: Gulmarg or Sonamarg. If you stayed in Gulmarg, a second morning on the snow before returning; otherwise Sonamarg through the tunnel.
  4. Day 4: Pahalgam. Betaab Valley and the Lidder, or a slow day in Srinagar if snow has closed the road.
  5. Day 5: Old City and depart. Harissa for breakfast, Jama Masjid and Khanqah-e-Moula, then the airport.

Keep the order flexible: snow can close a road for a day, and a good driver will swap days around. The 5-day Kashmir itinerary has the full version, including a winter variation.

December travel tips

  • Take the morning flight. Snow and low visibility occasionally delay flights at Srinagar, and an early arrival leaves room to recover.
  • Choose a heated hotel. Ask specifically about room heating and a power backup: power cuts are common in the Kashmir winter. Houseboats are cold; one night is plenty.
  • Keep a spare half-day for a road closure.
  • Carry cash for snow gear, sledges and ponies.
  • Use a postpaid SIM. Prepaid connections from outside J&K do not work.
  • Dress children warmly in layers, and watch them on the Gondola: Phase 2 is high and very cold.

Plan December with us

MIRHA Tour & Travels is based in Srinagar and runs trips through the whole winter. We will tell you honestly how the snow is looking as your dates approach, and plan the days so that Gulmarg falls on the best one. For the wider picture, see the best time to visit Kashmir, or the honeymoon packages for a winter honeymoon.

See the Kashmir tour packages, or tell us your December dates and we will hold the Gulmarg hotel and Gondola slots before the holiday rush takes them.