The spring and shrine
The marble temple in the sacred tank.
The temple of Mata Ragnya Devi at Tulmulla, built around a sacred spring whose colour is believed to change. The holiest shrine of Kashmiri Pandits.
Kheer Bhawani stands at Tulmulla in Ganderbal, surrounded by chinar trees and streams. The temple is dedicated to Mata Ragnya Devi and sits in the middle of a sacred spring tank. Devotees offer kheer — rice pudding — which gives the shrine its popular name.
Belief holds that the water of the spring changes colour, and that dark colours foretell troubled times. The biggest day is the annual mela on Jyeshtha Ashtami, usually in May or June, when thousands of Kashmiri Pandits gather here, including many who travel back from across India.
The complex is calm and green outside festival days. Remove shoes and dress modestly. Security is in place during the mela, and transport is arranged for pilgrims.
The marble temple in the sacred tank.
Shade and calm around the complex.
April to October; the mela is on Jyeshtha Ashtami (May/June).
Srinagar · Gulmarg · Sonamarg · Pahalgam
The complete valley circuit with deluxe stays on MAP plan, a private vehicle throughout and an hour on Dal Lake by shikara.
Srinagar · Gulmarg · Sonamarg · Pahalgam · Dal Lake
Adds a night in Pahalgam and a night aboard a deluxe Dal Lake houseboat to the classic valley circuit.
Srinagar · Gulmarg · Sonamarg · Pahalgam
Deluxe houseboat, shikara ride, candlelight dinner and cake across the four main valley stops.
Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and carry a scarf for women to cover the head at shrines. Bring a warm layer in every season, because Gulmarg and Sonamarg are cold once the sun goes in; in winter you need thermals, a down jacket, gloves and waterproof shoes.
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