Nishat Bagh

Nishat Bagh — the Garden of Delight — was laid out in 1633 by Asif Khan, the brother of Empress Nur Jahan and father-in-law of Shah Jahan. It is the largest of the Mughal gardens in Kashmir and, because it is built straight up the hillside from the lake shore, the one with the most dramatic view.

Twelve terraces rise from the Boulevard road to the foot of the Zabarwan range. Tradition links them to the twelve signs of the zodiac. A water channel runs down the centre in a series of cascades and fountains, and from the upper terraces you look straight across Dal Lake to the Pir Panjal.

Tips for the visit

Climb to the top first and walk down — the view of the lake opens up in front of you rather than behind. Allow an hour. The garden is busiest between 11 am and 3 pm in May and June; early morning is noticeably calmer, and the light on the lake is better.

Nishat sits between Chashme Shahi and Shalimar Bagh on the same road, so it slots into any garden circuit. If you are in Srinagar in late March or April, the Tulip Garden is a few minutes away.