Pari Mahal

Pari Mahal — the Palace of Fairies — is a ruined Mughal garden on the spur of the Zabarwan hills above Chashme Shahi. It was built in the mid-17th century by Dara Shikoh, Shah Jahan’s eldest son, for his teacher, the Sufi master Mulla Akhund Shah. It is said to have served as a school of astrology and astronomy.

What survives is a series of seven terraces with arched stone facades and the remains of water tanks, restored and planted as a garden. It is smaller and plainer than Nishat or Shalimar. Nobody comes for the architecture, though — they come for the view: the whole of Dal Lake, the old city and Hari Parbat laid out below.

When to go

Late afternoon, timed for sunset. The lake turns gold, then the city lights come on. The arches are illuminated after dark, and from the Boulevard you can see Pari Mahal glowing on the hillside. Like Chashme Shahi it sits near Raj Bhavan, so security checks are routine and timings can change at short notice.

Pair it with Chashme Shahi, just below, and end your garden day here rather than starting it.